by Lynn Parrucci
Often called the "stinking rose," garlic is among the most ancient ofcultivated plants, and its pungent odor has given it a legendary reputation.Through the annals of culinary history and folklore, garlic (Allium sativum)has been credited not only as an aphrodisiac, but also as a tonic to emboldensoldiers and to ward off vampires, worms, tumors and the common cold.
Garlic lovers would certainly agree that store-bought garlic powderor garlic salt provide a superficial, monotonous culinary experience comparedwith the bountiful flavors inherent in a clove of fresh garlic. Knowingthe plant's scientific secret allows cooks to creatively manipulate elegantnuances of flavor, bringing a rich diversity to their cooking.
Many plants, including garlic, protect themselves from bacteria, insectsand animals by producing odoriferous compounds. But whole garlic clovesare relatively odorless. The key to garlic's aromatic magic lies withinthe plant's cell walls, and once these cell membranes are ruptured, thepower is unleashed. The process is like assembling a puzzle. Inside eachgarlic cell lies one piece of the puzzle, an odorless molecule call alliin.Outside the cell, between the individual cell walls, lies the other puzzlepiece, an enzyme called alliinase. Enzymes are specialized proteins shapedin such a way that they lock with other molecules in a fixed position.Once a molecule is held by an enzyme, it is more likely to undergo specificchemical reactions
As garlic is chopped into fine pieces, more and more cell walls arebroken, allowing more alliin molecules to meet alliinase. When these puzzlepieces lock together, a complex series of reactions is triggered. The alliinmolecule is broken into several new molecules with different properties,but the alliinase molecules catalyze many reactions without undergoingany changes themselves. One of the molecules produced by the enzymaticreactions is the primary source of garlic's odor.
Chopped raw, garlic has a pungent taste and odor. But when whole clovesare simmered or roasted, the heat transforms the alliin into new, largermolecules before they meet the alliinase. This new structure gives thegarlic a soft, sweet buttery flavor that surprises many first-time eaters.Somewhere between finely chopped and whole there exists a wealth of opportunitiesto vary garlic's flavor-from slicing, smashing and quartering to fusingwith oil.
While garlic is thought to have been first discovered in Siberia, itsculture is widely spread and is popularly used in Indian, Asian, MiddleEastern, Mediterranean, European and American cuisine.
Below are adaptations of two pasta recipes in which fused garlic isused as a base for a delicate anchovy paste. Herbs and spices are addedto the paste to give the sauce a distinct flavor. The original recipesfrom the Umbria and Calabria-Lucania regions of Italy can be found in acookbook by Ada Boni entitled Italian Regional Cooking. The Umbria variationproduces a fresh mint flavor enhanced by capers. The Calabria-Lucania versionis boldly influenced by spicy chili powder and bread crumbs. Either ofthese sauces can be complemented by hearty vegetables such as asparagus,portabella mushrooms or sun dried tomatoes.
To learn more about garlic, visit the Carnegie Science Center's KitchenTheater. For information about garlic festivals, recipes and planting,visit the Garlic Page website at http:www.garlicpage.com, or search for"stinking rose" on any search engine.
Lynn Parrucci is program coordinator at the Science Center's KitchenTheater. Botanist Sue Thompson also contributed to this article.
PASTA WITH ANCHOVY SAUCE
- 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves of chopped garlic
1 2-oz. can of flat anchovy fillets, drained and rinsed
Cracked pepper to taste
1 1/2 lbs. pasta
large pot of water
large saute pan
Bring large pot of water to boil and add pasta. Cover, bring water backto boil, stirring occasionally with large fork. Cook briskly until tenderbut firm.
Meanwhile, heat oil in saute pan. Add garlic and saute until goldenbrown, then remove from oil. Add anchovies and cover immediately to avoidspattering hot oil. Wait a few seconds until spattering stops. Remove lidand stir until anchovies dissolve into paste. Add cracked pepper to taste.Remove pan from heat. Drain pasta and pour onto heated dish. Add anchovypaste and toss with either of the variations below.
VARIATION 1 - UMBRIAN MINT PESTO
- 1/2 cup mint finely chopped
1/2 cup parsley finely chopped
2 Tablespoons capers, drained, rinsed and patted with towel
12 black olives, pitted and chopped
VARIATION 2 - CALABRIAN SPICY CHILI
- 3 cups coarsely grated fresh bread crumbs
1/4 cup olive oil
chili powder to taste
Saute bread crumbs in oil until golden. Sprinkle with plenty of chiliand keep hot.
Neither variation is served with cheese. The salted flavor will comefrom the recipe's other ingredients.
Visit the Kitchen Theater at Carnegie Science Center to learn moreabout the science of cooking, and get a taste of what we're cooking anda recipe to take home. For a schedule of daily cooking shows, check theschedule board in the Science Center lobby on the day of your visit, orcall 237-3400. Be sure to ask if there is a guest chef appearing. The KitchenTheater at Carnegie Science Center is sponsored by the Jewish HealthcareFoundation.
